Before she was dodging radioactive mutants in Fallout or fighting for survival in the wilderness of Yellowjackets, Ella Purnell was just a girl in a white button-down trying to survive a dinner rush. Looking back, her role as Tess in Starz's Sweetbitter feels like a fever dream compared to the massive, genre-defining hits she’s leading now. But honestly? If you really want to understand why Purnell is the go-to actor for "traumatized but resilient" characters, you have to look at the messy, wine-soaked streets of 2018 New York.
It’s easy to forget. The show only ran for two seasons. People talk about The Bear now when they want a high-stress kitchen drama, but Sweetbitter was doing something different—it was sensory, tactile, and deeply focused on the loss of innocence. Ella Purnell was the heart of that.
Why Sweetbitter Was the Turning Point for Ella Purnell
A lot of actors have that one role where they stop being a "child actor" and start being a lead. For Purnell, that was Tess. Coming off projects like Miss Peregrine's Home for Peculiar Children, she needed something grounded. Raw. Maybe even a little bit gross.
In the show, Tess arrives in New York with nothing. No plan. Just a car and a vague desire to be someone. She lands a job as a back-waiter at one of the city's most elite restaurants. It’s based on Stephanie Danler’s bestselling semi-autobiographical novel, and the show leaned hard into that "coming-of-age in the big city" trope. But Purnell didn't play it like a cliché. She played it with this wide-eyed, terrifying hunger.
She wasn't just learning how to carry three plates at once; she was learning how to taste. Salt, sweet, sour, bitter. The show used these as metaphors for her life. It sounds a bit much, right? On paper, maybe. On screen, Purnell made it feel like a high-stakes thriller. You’ve probably felt that—that specific 22-year-old anxiety where a spilled glass of expensive Burgundy feels like the end of the world.
The Simone and Jake Dynamic
You can't talk about Purnell in this show without talking about the toxic triangle. Caitlin FitzGerald’s Simone was the mentor/villain, and Tom Sturridge’s Jake was the brooding love interest.
Purnell had to hold her own against actors who were playing much more "knowing" characters. Tess was the blank slate. That’s a hard role to play because if you're too blank, the audience gets bored. If you're too active, you lose the "fish out of water" vibe. Purnell found this middle ground where she was basically a sponge. She was soaking up the bad habits, the cynicism, and the refined tastes of people who were destined to break her heart.
The Physicality of the Role
One thing Purnell has mentioned in interviews is the "bootcamp" the cast had to go through. This wasn't some Hollywood version of waitressing where you just hold a tray and look pretty. They had to learn the actual mechanics of a high-end Manhattan dining room.
- Polishing silverware until your fingers ache.
- The specific "three-point" carry for plates.
- Knowing the difference between a Pinot Noir and a Gamay.
- The "dead-eye" stare you give a customer who asks for ketchup in a Michelin-star joint.
This technicality is what makes the performance stick. When you watch her in Fallout now, she has this incredible physical capability. She knows how to move in a space. That started in the cramped, frantic hallways of the Sweetbitter set. She learned how to be "busy" on camera without looking like she was acting.
Breaking the "Ingenue" Mold
Hollywood loves a "fresh face" in New York story. They usually make it sparkly. Think The Devil Wears Prada but with more pasta. Sweetbitter was much darker. It was about the "bitter" more than the "sweet."
Tess gets used. She gets lied to. She does things that make you want to yell at your TV. Purnell was brave enough to make Tess unlikeable at times. There’s a scene in the second season where the power dynamics shift, and you see this hardness enter Purnell’s eyes. It’s a precursor to the steely resolve she brings to Jackie in Yellowjackets. It was the first time we saw that she could do "dark" just as well as she could do "darling."
The Show's Unfortunate Cancellation
When Starz cancelled the show after Season 2, it felt like a bit of a gut punch to the small, dedicated fanbase. We never got to see Tess fully "become" the person she was trending toward. The second season ended on a bit of a cliffhanger regarding her standing in the restaurant and her relationship with the mysterious Simone.
But honestly? In a weird way, the cancellation helped Ella Purnell's career.
If Sweetbitter had gone for six seasons, she might have been pigeonholed as "the girl from that restaurant show." Instead, she was back on the market just as the "Prestige TV" boom was looking for young women who could lead heavy, high-concept dramas.
Why You Should Go Back and Watch It Now
If you're only a fan of her recent work, Sweetbitter is a fascinating time capsule. It’s a 180-degree turn from the post-apocalyptic settings she usually inhabits now. There are no monsters, no plane crashes, and no vault suits. It’s just human ego and expensive wine.
It’s also surprisingly relatable. Most people have had that one job that defined them—the one that was probably bad for their mental health but taught them everything they know about the "real world." Purnell captures that specific, vibrating energy of being young and desperate for experience.
The Connection Between Tess and Lucy MacLean
It sounds crazy, but there is a direct line from Tess in Sweetbitter to Lucy in Fallout.
Both characters start with a naive, almost aggressive optimism. They both believe that if they follow the rules and work hard, they will be rewarded. And they both get hit in the face with the reality that the world is a chaotic, unfair place run by people with their own agendas.
Purnell is the master of the "cracking facade." She starts a series with a perfect smile, and by the end, that smile is still there, but the eyes are completely different. That’s the "Sweetbitter" effect.
Actionable Insights for Fans and Aspiring Actors
If you're looking to dive deeper into Purnell's filmography or understand the craft behind the show, here’s how to approach it:
- Watch for the "Sensory" Acting: When watching Sweetbitter, pay attention to how Purnell reacts to tastes and smells. It’s a masterclass in non-verbal acting. She has to convince you she’s tasting a "forest floor" in a glass of wine without saying a word.
- Read the Source Material: Stephanie Danler’s book is much more internal than the show. Reading it gives you a massive appreciation for the "internal monologue" Purnell had to project onto the screen.
- Notice the Wardrobe Shift: Throughout the two seasons, Tess’s clothes change as she gains confidence and money. It’s subtle, but Purnell changes her posture to match the clothes. From slumping in oversized thrift store gear to standing tall in her "armor" (the restaurant uniform).
- The "Yes, Chef" Mentality: Notice how Purnell handles the hierarchy. The show is a great study in workplace power dynamics. Watch how she navigates the different "tiers" of the restaurant staff—it’s remarkably similar to how her characters navigate social hierarchies in her later, more fantastical shows.
Ella Purnell might be a superstar now, but she’ll always have a bit of that "back-waiter" grit in her. Sweetbitter wasn't just a job; it was the foundation for everything she’s doing today. If you want to see the moment a star was actually born, stop watching the monsters for a second and watch her polish some silverware. It’s just as intense.